The method I use and many other sport40 flyers use is, two layers of 3/16 Balsa sandwiching a 1/64 ply centre sheet, balsa grain must run span wise with 1" tips grain running cord ways. The ply ads a great deal of strength to the structure and also gives a nice centre line for sanding, before gluing I also cut out of the ply where the mylar hinges are going to sit, when dry you can now sand to shape and glass, next cut out elevator and hinge. Dont forget to fit elevator push rod mount before mounting tail plane in fuselage.

Most modern F3D models use moulded wings with ailerons hinging on the top skin, this works by cutting through the bottom skin along the hinge line, then each aileron end, with this set up the top skin will flex to allow enough movement, for 5-6 mm of travel.

When it comes to the sport 40 and Q500 models most use foam core wings with a balsa skin, If you try to use the F3D method, you find the skin is to stiff at the hinge line and as a consequence of this the servo is having to work too hard, plus the skin is easily cracked.

The method I use is, before glassing I cut through the top hinge line with a sharp knife, lightly sand around the hinge line to a width of 30mm, next remove all dust and balsaloc the skin to 10mm each side of the hinge line. Then when the balsaloc has fully dried, iron on a 20mm wide strip of solatex the length of the aileron hinge line. Now glass your wing in the normal way, when fully dry cut a slot 3-4 mm wide along the bottom surface hinge line, clean out slot and cut aileron ends, job done and more than enough movement to cope with all the racers needs without over loading your servos.